Are Egyptian cotton sheets really all that different?

Egyptian cotton sheets are widely known to be the most luxurious, comfortable and durable sheets available.

Egyptian cotton, it’s not just cotton grown in Egypt - it is a particular type of long-staple cotton originally grown along the Nile. Egyptian cotton has the longest fibers. That is, when you pull the cotton from the cotton plant and remove the seeds and waxes, Egyptian cotton has longer fibers available for spinning into yarn than other cottons. When intertwining strands of yarn to make a larger product, long-staple cotton has fewer connection points. This results in a much more durable and soft feeling product.

Different grades of cotton.  Just as grapes grown in certain regions are favored by wine connoisseurs over grapes grown in others, the quality of cotton can be estimated by its origin.  American domestic cotton is an excellent variety called "pima" cotton.  This is a long-staple cotton, and is relatively inexpensive, considering its high quality. 

This same variety of cotton plant is also grown in Egypt. It is the ancestor of the plant known as Pima Cotton here in the United States. Egypt calls their more luxuriant textile "Egyptian Cotton."  Due to an ideal growing climate and perfect soil conditions. The cotton plants produce appreciably longer, silkier, and thicker fibers. This cotton is woven into the absolute best percales.  Unfortunately, since it must be imported from Egypt, and usually through Eastern European distributorships and plantation owners, it carries with it a heavy price tag.

Though as is commonly the case, you will get what you pay for.

There are 2 primary cotton plant varieties grown to produce cotton for the textile industry.

Gossypium barbadense and Gossypium hirsutum. The latter started to be grown in quantity in the early 1950’s post WWII.
Cotton of either variety grown in the United States is labeled and trademarked as Pima Cotton. That which is grown in Egypt is marketed as Egyptian Cotton.

History of Egyptian cotton:

The term Egyptian cotton is usually applied to the extra long staple cotton now grown in Egypt and favored for luxury up market brands worldwide. In fact, the cotton species, Gossypium barbadense which produces extra long staple "Egyptian" cotton known today in fact is a cotton plant species native to the American Continent. During the American Civil war Mohammad Ali Pasha saw a unique market opportunity in Europe for supplying the raw materials needed to satisfy the growing demand of quality cotton goods.

He took a large seed and plant stock of the prized cotton to Europe. The first few years the plants struggled to produce due to poor climate and rocky soil conditions of midland Europe. Through substantial European investments, vast cotton plantations in the fertile Nile River Valley of Egypt were created.

Modern day Egyptian cotton also now consists of another American variety, Gossypium hirsutum

Weaving is the oldest method of making yarn into fabric. While modern methods are more complex and much faster, the basic principle of interlacing yarns remains unchanged. On the loom, lengthwise yarns called the warp form the skeleton of the fabric. They usually require a higher degree of twist than the filling yarns that are interlaced widthwise.

(1) plain weave, in which the filling is alternately passed over one warp yarn and under the next, is used for gingham, percales, chambray, batistes and many other fabrics

(2) twill weave, in which the yarns are interlaced to form diagonal ridges across the fabric, is used for sturdy fabrics like denim, gabardine, herringbone and ticking

(3) satin weave, the least common of the three, produces a smooth fabric with high sheen. Used for cotton sateen, it is produced with fewer yarn interlacings and with either the warp or filling yarns dominating the face of the cloth.

Four Characteristics of quality Egyptian cotton:

1.       superior softness and comfort

2.       More durable

3.       Become softer with each wash cycle

4.       Colors stay more vibrant for a longer period of time

Three factors to consider when purchasing high quality bedding:

1.       Cotton type: More important than thread count is to make sure the product is comprised of ELS cotton. (extra-long staple)  ELS cotton fibers have a length of at least 1 3/8” which is then used to weave yarn that is thin yet exceptionally strong

2.       Thread count:  The thread count of the fabric determines its density. This generally gives you a good gauge of its softness, although the quality of the cotton used contributes greatly to the tactile feel.

Thread count is simply the sum of the warp (lengthwise) and weft (widthwise) woven together in one squire inch of fabric. In general the higher that number, (thread count) the better the fabric. But in our days, I have to say that thread count has almost nothing to do with the fabric quality and became only of a marketing tool.

Around 20 years ago, Textiles Mills around the World would use one type of quality yarns woven in the same exact process, so whomever achieved higher thread count in those days, did in fact achieved better quality fabric.
In our days, things have changed dramatically. As technology advanced, what was not possible for the older generation of textile manufacturers became available for this one. Lower quality fiber which was not used in making T250 sheets for example, now were able to be use even in up to T300. Weaving looms were updated as well to able to weave fabric in many methods and speeds.

To simplify things, a 300 Thread count sheets made with quality yarn from quality fiber, woven in an authentic weave can well be of much better quality than a T500 or even higher.

3.       Weave methods  

Percale:
Percale is simply a name for the weaving process in which the fabric is woven.
In a Percale or “traditional” weave, fabric is woven in one over one. It produces much stronger fabric but also limits the ultimate thread count which can be archived to 400 thread count.
To find the “thread count" of a percale fabric count the threads going in both directions inside one square inch of the fabric. In percale the yarns are woven in one over one, unlike Sateen where it’s four over one. The one over one (percale) weave creates a more even, stronger, denser and softer fabric. This weave process helps stand the test of time and actually gets softer and stronger with each washing.

A percale can be made of 100% cotton, 100% polyester, or any combination in between.  Even a high thread count 60/40 percale blend won't be as soft or luxuriant as a lower thread count 100% cotton.  Also, a dark colored cotton percale will feel stiffer than a lighter colored percale with the same thread count (due to dye saturation).

Sateen:
Sateen weave uses a four over one pattern. The process gives one side of the fabric a different satin-like texture and luster.  This is achieved through a special elaborate process at the mill, where the fabric is woven.  First, the fabric is woven in such a way that the threads are twisted on the front side of the fabric.  The fabric is then "calendered" or passed under a steam-roller-like apparatus that applies 2000 lbs of pressure per square inch. Because this weave places the most threads on the surface of the sheet, sateen fabrics are very soft and luxurious.

In this weave most of the yarns would be on the top surface of the fabric, resulting in silky smooth touch. In this weave higher thread count can be archived, even up to 1000 thread count per square inch.